Ankara, the modern, bustling capital of the Republic of Turkey, often takes a backseat to the historical drama and coastal allure of Istanbul or the Aegean resorts. However, for the discerning tourist, a visit to Ankara during the winter months unveils a city of understated elegance and cultural depth, free from the sweltering heat and massive crowds of the high season. When the Anatolian plateau is dusted with snow, the city transforms, offering a crisp, clear atmosphere perfect for cultural exploration and cosy indoor retreats.
This guide provides a comprehensive overview of the essential activities, from world-class museums to picturesque Ottoman quarters, ensuring your winter trip is both rewarding and comfortable. We will also provide crucial advice for those planning to navigate the city and its surrounds by car, guaranteeing a smooth and stress-free holiday in the Turkish heartland.
Escaping the brisk winter air is best achieved by diving into Ankara’s rich cultural and historical offerings, most of which are conveniently located indoors. The city is a treasure trove of Turkish history, spanning millennia.
The Museum of Anatolian Civilisations stands as Ankara’s foremost cultural attraction and is arguably one of the best history museums in the world. Housed in two beautifully restored Ottoman-era buildings, a former bedesten (covered market) and han (caravanserai), its extensive collection chronologically guides visitors through the fascinating history of Anatolia. From Palaeolithic tools and magnificent Hittite artefacts to Phrygian treasures from the royal tumulus of Gordion and Roman and Ottoman pieces, the museum offers a powerful narrative of the region's historical significance. Spending a cold afternoon within its warm, ancient walls is a genuinely enriching experience.
No visit to Ankara is complete without paying homage at Anıtkabir, the monumental mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the revered founder and first president of the Republic of Turkey. While the complex itself is vast and the ceremonial courtyard is open to the elements, the integrated museum complex within the site offers a deep and moving insight into Atatürk’s life, military career, and the pivotal War of Independence. This is a must-see site for understanding the modern Turkish state.
For those with an interest in technology and industry, the Rahmi M. Koç Museum provides a fascinating and often whimsical journey through the history of transport, communication, and industrial machinery. Located in the Citadel district, this private museum is an engaging space that appeals to visitors of all ages, offering a change of pace from traditional historical exhibits.
Finally, the contemporary art scene thrives at CerModern, housed in a striking building that was once a railway workshop. This space regularly hosts national and international contemporary art exhibitions, providing a stimulating contrast to the city’s ancient history and acting as a vibrant cultural hub on a chilly day.
Ankara’s architectural landscape blends the ancient, the classical, and the modern. The monumental Kocatepe Mosque dominates the skyline and is a must-visit for its grand, early neoclassical Ottoman-stle architecture. Completed in 1987, it is one of the largest mosques in the world, and its sheer scale and intricate interior decoration are impressive.
In the old city district of Ulus, the past and present stand side-by-side at the Haci Bayram Mosque complex. This 15th-century mosque is known for its exquisite wood carvings and is situated adjacent to the ruins of the Temple of Augustus, a Roman monument dating back to the first century AD. This remarkable juxtaposition of classical Roman ruins and Ottoman religious architecture provides a unique historical perspective on the city.
While winter dictates a preference for indoor activities, stepping out to experience the crisp air and the city’s unique charm is essential, particularly in the beautifully preserved historical districts.
The Hamamönü Restored Area is the perfect place for a gentle, picturesque stroll. This district is known for its meticulously preserved Ottoman-era houses, now home to a collection of artisanal shops, craft workshops, and traditional cafés. It is here that one can truly capture the cosy atmosphere of an Ankara winter. Step into one of the warm, rustic cafés to enjoy a strong Turkish coffee or the quintessentially Turkish winter beverage, salep. This sweet, warm drink is made from hot milk, cinnamon, and the flour of orchid tubers, offering a comforting warmth on the coldest of days.
For a taste of Ankara’s modern pulse, explore the central areas of Kızılay, Tunalı Hilmi, and Bahçelievler. These districts are the commercial and social heart of the city, brimming with bustling high streets, trendy restaurants, and cosmopolitan shopping options. They are ideal for people-watching and experiencing the energy of the contemporary Turkish capital.
To truly appreciate the scale of Ankara, a panoramic view is necessary. Climbing up to the Ankara Castle (Ankara Kalesi) is highly recommended. The ancient stone walls and towers offer a spectacular vantage point over the city, and the sight of the urban sprawl stretching to the snow-capped mountains beyond is particularly striking in winter. The castle grounds are open all year, though paths can be icy, so caution is advised.
A warmer alternative for a panoramic view is the Atakule Tower, a modern skyscraper with an observation deck and a revolving restaurant. A visit here in the late afternoon allows one to witness the sunset followed by the city’s impressive blanket of twinkling lights—a perfect end to a winter day.
For a brief, serene moment outdoors, Kuğulu Park (Swan Park) in the Kavaklıdere neighbourhood offers a tranquil urban respite. Famous for its resident swans and ducks, the sight of the park dusted in frost or light snow is a charming, peaceful scene amidst the busy city.
For those seeking more active pursuits or dedicated retail therapy, Ankara offers plenty of options both inside and just outside the city limits.
If you are a fan of skiing or snowboarding and conditions are favourable, a short drive of approximately an hour will take you to a ski resort. While not as large as Turkey’s major resorts, it provides a convenient and accessible option for a day trip from the capital to enjoy the snow and winter sports.
Ankara is home to an abundance of large, modern shopping centres, which serve as excellent havens from the cold. Malls provide extensive retail options, from international brands to local Turkish boutiques. They also house an aquarium, which is a welcome distraction for families on a particularly cold afternoon.
For a truly traditional, warming, and relaxing experience, visiting a Turkish Bath, known as Hamam, is essential. Indulging in a steam, scrub, and massage at a historic bathhouse will not only warm you through but also provide a deep insight into a cherished aspect of Turkish culture and hospitality.
It is always worth checking local event listings, as the cooler months often host various cultural activities. International institutes in Ankara frequently organise smaller markets or seasonal gatherings in December. Furthermore, the Ankara International Film Festival typically takes place around January or February, providing an opportunity to catch local and international cinema in a warm, comfortable theatre setting.
Navigating Ankara by car offers freedom and flexibility, particularly for day trips to sites like Elmadağ or Gordion. However, winter driving in a large, relatively hilly city requires careful preparation and awareness.
The most critical factor for winter driving in Turkey is tyre choice. Winter tyres (Kış Lastiği) are legally mandated for commercial vehicles between the 1st of December and the 1st of April, and their use is highly recommended for all cars when temperatures drop below seven degrees Celsius, which is common in Ankara. When booking a rental car, you must specifically ensure it is equipped with winter tyres. Additionally, if you plan to venture into nearby mountainous areas or if heavy snow is forecast, it is prudent to carry snow chains in the vehicle.
In the early morning or on shaded roads, there is a significant risk of black ice. Drive slowly, increase your following distance, and avoid abrupt steering or braking inputs. While the municipality is generally efficient at salting and clearing major routes after snowfall, secondary streets and residential areas may remain icy for longer.
Ankara’s drivers can be assertive; therefore, adopt a defensive driving posture, maintaining vigilance and anticipation. Given the city’s hilly topography, be aware of driving conditions on slopes. Use low gears when descending to control speed and avoid relying heavily on the brakes, and apply gentle, steady pressure on the accelerator when ascending.
Parking can be challenging in central areas. For guaranteed security and to prevent your car from being buried in snow or covered in ice, opt for one of the many covered parking garages, known as otopark, available in the central business districts. For the most congested and historical parts of the city, such as the Ulus district where the Citadel is located, consider parking further afield and utilising the efficient metro system or taking a short taxi ride. This will save you the stress of navigating dense traffic and finding a suitable parking spot in the heart of the old town.
Ankara in winter provides a unique and engaging experience for tourists willing to embrace the cold. The season offers a chance to explore world-class museums in peace, enjoy the unparalleled cultural warmth of the Hamamönü district, and witness the majesty of the Anatolian capital under a crisp, often snowy sky.
With careful preparation, your visit to Turkey's heartland will be a memorable and culturally enriching journey. Explore Ankara’s winter wonderland at your own pace. Book your rental car today, and ensure it is equipped with winter tyres for a safe and smooth drive.
