Turkey, the ancient crossroads between East and West, is home to one of Europe's hidden gems for hiking enthusiasts: the Lycian Way, a long-distance path that stretches for over five hundred kilometres along its Mediterranean coast. This is not a simple stroll, but a genuine journey through history, culture, and landscapes of extraordinary beauty.
This Lycian Way offers a unique experience, combining the exploration of ancient towns and necropolises with the charm of isolated coves and breathtaking views that embrace the turquoise sea. While it demands a good level of fitness, it is accessible to a wide range of hikers, promising an unforgettable adventure far from the more trodden tourist paths. For Italian adventurers, the Lycian Way represents a perfect escape, offering a compelling blend of nature, history, and the incredible hospitality of the Turkish people.
The key to fully enjoying the Lycian Way experience lies in meticulous planning, from picking the best schedule for your trek to packing your bags and getting physically ready for the hike.
The first consideration is choosing the best time to embark on the journey. The ideal months are spring, particularly April and May, when nature reawakens and the fields burst with vibrant colours, or autumn, between September and October, when temperatures are milder and more pleasant for long walks. It is strongly advised not to tackle the route during summer, the hottest months of July and August, due to the extreme temperatures, which can make trekking extremely tiring and risky.
Regarding the duration, the full route takes approximately four to five weeks to complete, but most hikers prefer to tackle the most iconic sections. An excellent choice for a first approach is a one-week or ten-day itinerary, which allows you to get a taste of the best of the western part of the trail, rich in coastal panoramas and historical sites.
Hikers must also consider their level of physical fitness. Although the path is classified as having medium difficulty, it features rocky sections and significant ascents and descents that test legs and stamina. It is highly recommended to prepare for a few months in advance by taking long walks with a rucksack on your back and dedicating yourself to regular cardiovascular exercise. Always be honest with yourself and know your physical limits.
Preparing the required documents is easy due to the visa-free agreement between Italy and Turkey. For tourist stays of under ninety days, it is sufficient to travel with your Italian passport. Just make sure that it is valid for at least 6 months beyond your intended date of departure. While not always checked, you may be asked to show evidence that you have enough money to cover your stay. You might also need to provide proof of your accommodation and return ticket. It is always good practice to check the government's travel advice website before departure for any updates on travel requirements.
From Italy, travellers can access the Lycian Way by flying into one of two main airports in Turkey, including the Dalaman Airport (DLM). The start of the Lycian Way is closer to Dalaman, so it is the best option. There are no direct flights, so all routes from major Italian cities, like Rome, require at least one layover, typically in Istanbul. This layover adds to the overall travel time, with total flight durations usually ranging from 5 to 8 hours, depending on the airline and the length of the stopover.
The Lycian Way offers a diverse range of accommodations, catering to different budgets and preferences. In larger towns like Fethiye, Kaş, and Kalkan, hikers can find a full spectrum of lodging, from upscale hotels and apartments to more budget-friendly pensions and guesthouses. For those who prefer a more rustic and immersive experience, many smaller villages along the trail have family-run guesthouses and homestays. These often provide an authentic cultural experience, with hosts offering home-cooked meals and local hospitality. Additionally, wild camping is generally legal in Turkey, providing a free and flexible option for experienced hikers who carry their own gear. Some designated commercial campsites are also available, offering basic amenities like shared bathrooms and showers for a small fee. This variety means that hikers can choose a mix-and-match approach, staying in different types of accommodation as they progress along the trail.
The most important item to wear is a sturdy pair of hiking boots with ankle support and good traction, as the path often consists of rocky, uneven surfaces. For clothing, layers are key. A moisture-wicking base layer, an insulating mid-layer, and a waterproof and windproof outer shell are essential for adapting to sudden weather changes. Lightweight, breathable hiking pants or shorts are suitable for most of the trail. A wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and a buff or scarf are also recommended for sun protection, as much of the trail is exposed. It's also wise to pack a pair of lightweight shoes or sandals for use in camp or while exploring towns, giving your feet a break from your boots
A well-equipped backpack is vital. Hikers should carry a bag with a capacity of 30-50 litres, depending on the length of their trek and whether they plan to camp. Essential equipment includes a reliable GPS device or map and compass, as some sections of the trail are not clearly marked. Plenty of water is a must, and a water filter or purification tablets are highly recommended as water sources can be scarce or unreliable. A first-aid kit with blister plasters, pain relievers, and any personal medications is non-negotiable. Other key items include a headlamp or flashlight, a portable power bank, and trekking poles, which can significantly aid balance and reduce strain on knees on steep descents. For those planning to camp, a lightweight tent, sleeping bag, and cooking stove are also necessary.
A seven-day itinerary is perfect for capturing the essence of the Lycian Way without having to tackle the entire route. Remember that this can be modified based on your schedule and preferences.
Your journey begins at Dalaman Airport. From there, a short drive will take you to the quaint village of Kayaköy, the starting point of your trek. This first day is dedicated to exploring this captivating ghost village. Walking amongst the crumbling stone houses and chapels is a haunting and surreal experience, a quiet testament to the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in the 1920s. After absorbing the history of this silent city, the trail leads you through a lush pine forest on a scenic descent. The path offers your first incredible views of the coast before arriving at the famous Ölüdeniz, or "Blue Lagoon". This picture-perfect bay is your reward for the day's hike, offering the perfect opportunity for a refreshing swim in its calm, turquoise waters.
Today is where the real trek begins. A short ride takes you to the starting point in Övacık. The trail immediately begins to climb the lower slopes of Mount Babadağ, also known as "Father Mountain", which rises majestically above the coastline. This section of the Lycian Way is renowned for its spectacular coastal panoramas. Every turn reveals a more breathtaking view of Ölüdeniz Bay far below. The trail is rocky and demanding in parts, but the stunning scenery is a constant reward. You will arrive at the village of Faralya in the late afternoon, where a cosy guesthouse awaits.
Leaving Faralya behind, the trail descends steeply, twisting and turning through thick pine and olive groves. Your destination is the secluded and beautiful Kabak Bay. This section of the path offers a unique blend of lush vegetation and rugged coastline, providing fleeting glimpses of the sea between the trees. The final descent into the bay is an experience in itself, with a steep, winding trail that deposits you into a bohemian paradise. Kabak Bay has a relaxed, alternative vibe, with small eco-lodges and a stunning beach framed by dramatic cliffs.
Today’s trek takes you inland, away from the immediate coastline and into the higher terrain. The trail climbs steadily, offering a change of scenery from the seaside paths. You will pass through small, authentic hamlets and rural landscapes, getting a feel for the traditional Turkish countryside. The trail is less crowded on this section, allowing for a more introspective and peaceful hiking experience. The destination is the small, quiet village of Gey, a perfect spot to rest and enjoy some genuine Turkish hospitality away from the tourist crowds.
The walk on this day is a fascinating blend of nature and ancient history. The trail from Gey to Sidyma is relatively gentle, traversing rolling hills and open fields. What makes this stage truly unique is the destination itself. Sidyma is not a typical archaeological site; its Hellenistic and Roman ruins are not contained within a park but are scattered throughout the modern village. As you walk, you will find ancient tombs carved into the rock face, crumbling walls, and fragments of columns nestled amongst village houses and gardens. It is a surreal and deeply personal experience of stepping back in time.
This is one of the most rewarding days of the trek. Leaving the highlands behind, the trail begins a long, gradual descent towards the coast. As you approach, the view opens up to reveal a magnificent sight: the vast, golden sands of Patara beach and the sprawling ruins of the ancient city. After days of mountain trekking, the wide-open landscape is a welcome change. You will have ample time to explore the archaeological site, which includes a majestic Roman theatre, a monumental gate, and a restored parliament building. Patara was once a major Lycian port, and its ruins tell a powerful story of a bygone era.
The final day of your adventure takes you from Patara to the charming coastal town of Kalkan. The path is a beautiful conclusion to the journey, offering one last dose of stunning coastal views. The route winds along cliffs and through small coves, giving you a final chance to appreciate the diverse beauty of the Lycian coast. Arriving in Kalkan feels like a well-earned reward. This picturesque town, with its whitewashed houses and narrow, winding streets, is the perfect place to celebrate the completion of your incredible trek.
Tackling the Lycian Way requires practical considerations that go beyond simply choosing the route. Here are some tips that you can follow for a seamless hike.
For navigation, it is crucial not to rely solely on the signage, which can be inconsistent in some sections. Offline navigation apps are a lifesaver. It’s best to download the route map in advance and keep it handy on your phone with a backup battery or a power bank. For safety, it is essential to inform someone of your itinerary and, in case of emergency, to contact local emergency numbers. Although Turkey is a relatively safe country, it is always advisable not to walk alone in the most isolated sections. Always hike with a guide or a group.
As for supplies, you cannot take the availability of food and water for granted at all times. Although there are villages with small shops and springs along the way, it is essential to carry a sufficient supply for each stage, especially if you plan to camp. A water purification system or disinfectant tablets are an excellent precaution. Although many businesses accept credit cards, having cash on hand is crucial, especially in smaller villages. Make sure to have the local currency, Turkish Lira.
Another aspect to consider is respecting local customs, particularly in rural areas. Dressing appropriately and showing respect for local traditions, such as greeting and interacting with residents, will make the experience even richer and more rewarding. Try to learn some basic Turkish words and phrases, so you can engage more with the locals. This will also be valuable when asking for help or directions.
The Lycian Way is not just a trail; it is an experience that sinks into the heart and soul. It combines the physical satisfaction of a long walk with the discovery of a thousand-year-old cultural heritage and the boundless beauty of one of the Mediterranean's most fascinating stretches of coastline. The trek allows you to unplug from the daily grind, immersing yourself in an atmosphere of peace and continuous discovery. By walking in the footsteps of the ancient Lycians, you get the feeling of being part of a millennia-old story that has shaped this territory.
If the prospect of an adventure like this excites you, there is no better time to start planning. Consider renting a car to enhance your journey. Many travellers choose to combine driving with hiking, using a car to reach different trailheads and then exploring a section of the path on foot. This allows you to experience the best of both worlds—the convenience of a car for covering large distances and the immersive experience of hiking to see the ancient ruins and natural beauty up close. So, pack your bags and book your rental car today to start an adventure of a lifetime.
