When you first imagine a holiday to Turkey, images of sun-drenched beaches along the Aegean coast, the vibrant hustle of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, or perhaps the majestic minarets of the Blue Mosque immediately spring to mind. It's a country renowned for its breathtaking landscapes and rich tapestry of history, but few travellers realise that some of its most profound secrets are not found on the surface.
Far from the tourist-laden shores and bustling city centres lies a world of silent, forgotten cities carved deep into the earth. This underground realm in the heart of Anatolia is a testament to human ingenuity and resilience, offering a mystical and truly unique adventure far removed from the usual holiday itinerary. To descend into these subterranean labyrinths is to embark on a journey back in time, a powerful experience that combines the thrill of discovery with a quiet contemplation of history.
This is an expedition that promises to stir the soul and awaken the inner adventurer, providing a stark and compelling contrast to the country’s more famous attractions. Instead of lounging on a beach, you will be navigating corridors that have protected families for centuries. Rather than haggling for spices, you will be marvelling at the precision of ancient engineering. Prepare to leave the familiar world behind and venture into a realm of myth and history, where every carved stone and every narrow passage tells a story of survival and faith.
Embarking on a journey into these subterranean cities requires a little more forethought than a simple day at the beach. The environment below ground is vastly different from the one above, and a bit of preparation can make the experience far more comfortable and enjoyable.
First and foremost, footwear is crucial. The ground inside the cities is often uneven, dusty, and can be slippery in places, so comfortable, sturdy shoes with a good grip are a necessity. You will be walking for extended periods, descending and ascending steep, sometimes unlit, stairs, and navigating tight spaces, so leave the sandals and flip-flops at your hotel.
Layered clothing is also highly recommended. While the heat of the Turkish sun can be intense on the surface, the temperature underground remains consistently cool, and the air can feel damp. A light jacket or a warm jumper will be a welcome addition, particularly as you delve deeper into the earth. The constant temperature and lack of sunlight create an atmosphere that is both serene and a little chilly, so being able to adjust your clothing will ensure you can focus on the incredible sights rather than on feeling cold.
It is also important to be mindful of the physical and mental demands of the tour. The underground cities, particularly Derinkuyu, involve a considerable amount of walking through narrow, low-ceilinged tunnels and descending many flights of stairs. If you have mobility issues or are not comfortable with small, enclosed spaces, you might find some sections challenging. Be honest with yourself about your comfort level, as there is no shame in taking the easier, wider paths or choosing to only explore the upper levels.
For those who experience claustrophobia, it is worth noting that some passages can be very tight, requiring you to duck or even crouch down. However, the spaces often open up into larger communal areas, offering a sense of relief. It is possible to enjoy a visit without feeling obligated to explore every single passage. A small torch or the flashlight on your phone can also be a helpful tool for navigating some of the darker corners and appreciating the fine details of the carvings.
Found beneath the distinctive landscapes of Turkey, the underground cities are a remarkable network of subterranean settlements carved from soft volcanic rock. These hidden cities are not just historical sites; they are immersive environments that speak volumes about a people who sought refuge in the very foundations of the earth, choosing to disappear from the world above to preserve their way of life. This journey focuses on the remarkable region of Cappadocia and its two most famous subterranean cities: Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı.
Cappadocia is a landscape so bizarre and beautiful it could be from another planet. The area is defined by its whimsical "fairy chimneys", towering conical rock formations that rise from the valley floors like something out of a fairy tale. These unique geological structures are the result of millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion. Ancient volcanoes like Mount Erciyes and Mount Hasan blanketed the region in thick layers of soft volcanic ash, or tuff. Over time, wind and water meticulously carved and sculpted this porous rock into the striking formations we see today.
It was this very soft, workable tuff that made it possible for human hands to create the incredible subterranean cities. The ease with which the rock could be excavated allowed early inhabitants to dig not just simple caves, but entire multi-level dwellings and, eventually, complex settlements. The first people to extensively build and inhabit these underground cities were early Christians, who began seeking refuge in the region as early as the first centuries AD. Faced with relentless persecution from the Roman Empire and, later, repeated incursions and raids by the Sassanian and Arab armies, they needed a place to hide. The soft rock provided the perfect solution: a way to literally disappear from the face of the earth.
The cities served as an extraordinary form of refuge, providing a complete and self-sustaining community for thousands of people during times of siege. The entrances were deliberately small and inconspicuous, easily hidden from view. Once inside, the cities were a complete world unto themselves, with all the necessary amenities to support life for extended periods. This combination of natural geological wonders and human-carved sanctuaries creates a deeply layered and fascinating destination. The history of the underground cities is not just one of survival, but also of a deep-seated desire to preserve a way of life against overwhelming odds, a silent testament to the fortitude of a faith and a people.
Derinkuyu, which translates to "deep well", is an apt name for the most profound of Cappadocia’s underground cities. As the deepest known excavated site in Turkey, it plunges over eighty-five metres into the earth, a vertical city of over eighteen levels. It is an engineering marvel that could house a staggering twenty thousand people along with their livestock and food supplies. As you descend from the sunny world above, the scale and ambition of the city quickly become apparent. The first levels are where the inhabitants would have housed their animals, a strategic decision to both keep them close for safety and to mask their presence from potential invaders on the surface. The deeper you go, the more complex and intricate the society becomes, with distinct areas for living, learning, and worship.
The architecture of Derinkuyu is a masterclass in survivalist design. Its most famous feature is the massive, circular stone doors, some weighing up to five hundred kilos. These doors were ingeniously designed to be rolled into place from the inside, perfectly sealing off corridors and levels to block intruders. They could only be opened from the interior, making the city a virtually impenetrable fortress. The inhabitants also solved the seemingly impossible challenge of ventilation. More than fifty separate shafts were drilled deep into the rock, providing a sophisticated system that ensured a constant flow of fresh air throughout every level, even the very lowest ones. This brilliant design prevented the suffocation of the thousands of people living in confined spaces and demonstrates an advanced understanding of air pressure and circulation. Beyond these survival features, the city contained all the necessities for a complete society: stables, vast wine cellars, oil presses, communal kitchens, schools, and even a large, cruciform-shaped church.
To walk through the narrow, dark corridors of Derinkuyu is a profoundly moving experience. The air grows cooler, and the silence is palpable, broken only by the sound of your own footsteps. In the dim light, it is easy to imagine the generations who lived, loved, and died here. You can almost hear the hushed whispers of families, the lowing of cattle, and the faint echoes of lessons being taught in the schoolroom. The sense of isolation and security is overwhelming, giving you a powerful insight into the courage and faith that allowed these people to live and thrive in such an unforgiving environment. It is a place that truly forces you to use your imagination, to visualise a life lived in a world without sunlight, a life defined by the depths of the earth.
Just a short distance from Derinkuyu lies another great underground city, Kaymaklı. While not as deep, it is widely considered to be the largest and most complex of the excavated sites. Its labyrinthine network of tunnels, chambers, and passages is an incredible testament to the collective effort of its inhabitants. It is believed that Kaymaklı was home to an equally large population, and its layout suggests a more permanent and communal way of life. The city’s structure is fascinating, with a vast interconnectedness of pathways, making it easy to get lost without a knowledgeable guide. Perhaps most impressively, historical accounts suggest that Kaymaklı was connected to Derinkuyu by an underground tunnel that stretched for eight kilometres, providing a strategic escape route and a means of communication during times of extended siege.
Daily life underground in Kaymaklı was a marvel of communal living and resourcefulness. The city’s design places a greater emphasis on spaces dedicated to the mundane yet vital aspects of existence. You will find large food storage rooms, with carved niches for storing clay pots full of grain and other supplies. The communal kitchens are still visible, complete with large clay ovens where bread would have been baked, feeding thousands of people. There are also stables, workshops, and a stunningly preserved church that speaks to the deep religious faith of its inhabitants. The atmosphere in Kaymaklı feels slightly less oppressive than in Derinkuyu, with its tunnels generally being wider and more accommodating. This may be because it was used for longer periods of time, allowing its residents to optimise it for everyday living.
To explore Kaymaklı is to get a very real sense of how a society could function completely hidden from the outside world. It is not just a place of refuge but a functional home. The spaces feel lived-in, and the sheer number of chambers and passages suggests a bustling, organised community. The intricate tunnels and interlocking rooms create a sense of being in a complex, three-dimensional puzzle, each new turn revealing a different part of the ancient social fabric. The discovery of these homely aspects—the kitchens, the storage rooms, the places of worship—gives a powerful human dimension to the experience, making the history feel incredibly personal and immediate.
For those planning to experience these subterranean wonders, a few practical considerations can make all the difference and keep you safe.
To descend into the depths of Cappadocia’s underground cities is to take a step into a world that defies expectation and challenges the imagination. It is a stark reminder that some of the greatest human stories of courage and ingenuity are told not on the battlefield or in grand palaces, but in the quiet, subterranean spaces where people sought safety and freedom. This is not just a tour; it is an expedition that will leave an indelible mark on your memory, a powerful counterpoint to the more traditional Turkish holiday.
For the ultimate flexibility and freedom to explore these wonders at your own pace, consider renting a car. The roads are well-maintained, and having your own transport allows you to visit smaller, less-crowded sites and truly feel like a modern-day explorer. So, as you plan your underground expedition, book a car on Final Rentals and get ready to discover the profound secrets that lie beneath the surface of Turkey.
